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14 min read
14 min read
In nearly every home in Malaysia, there will likely be a drawer containing items from the past. In that drawer, you might find an old jade bangle from your grandmother that has been smoothed from wear over many years, and a gold chain from a wedding in 1970. You may find a ruby ring that no one appears to fit into anymore or a piece of pearl jewellery that just feels too formal for today's lifestyles.
Jewellery isn't generally worn; however, it is also rarely disposed of.
The emotional value that the pieces represent will remain long after the pieces themselves have been removed to live quietly for many years to come.
If you experience any of these scenarios, you are not alone and this guide is for you. The redesign of jewellery in Malaysia is one of the most underappreciated, as well as one of the most meaningful, services available in the world of fine jewellery. At Felinda, we have worked with families throughout Klang Valley to create new life out of heirloom pieces, by transforming old gold and forgotten gemstones into jewellery that is once again worn, cherished, and passed on.
This guide will provide you with the complete understanding of how to repurpose old jewellery in Malaysia: the product available, the process necessary, and whether or not it may be suitable for your needs.
Jewellery has a significant emotional value attached to it as a reflection of Malaysia's unique cultural history. The immense value of gold and gemstone gifts exchanged during weddings, the birth of a child and other important occasions among the Chinese, Indian and Malay communities demonstrates how much more than simply decorative pieces they represent; they are also testament to one's family ancestry, wealth and affection.
For many Chinese families, an entire generation of family members may have inherited grand 22K or 24K gold bangles, pendants and unique rings that were popular in an entirely different decade. Likewise, Indian families may also have intricate temple jewellery made of gold as well as vintage uncut diamonds. As such, they don't just serve as decorative items; rather, they are living records of their family's heritage, security…and Love.
This generational issue is here now; fashions have changed significantly; therefore, this younger generation has different style needs than the generations that created these heirlooms. For instance, the children who receive these pieces will often prefer lightweight gold chains, simple bands and a modern style and look; therefore, those beautiful heirlooms are kept in a locked box by the original heir because there is no way he/she would like to sell them, however, this also means that they have no way of wearing them themselves.
This is why the redesigning of an heirloom piece of jewellery is an opportunity not only for the heir but also an opportunity for preserving your family's history; therefore, it is important to respect the original intent of the designer while creating a new, unique piece for the next generation.
There is a large range of types of changes that can take place with the reworking of jewellery in Malaysia. At a basic level, this is simply taking the material (gold, gemstones, jade) from one old piece of jewellery and then transforming that material into something new. Below are some of the most common types of transformation that occur within this.
Perhaps your grandmother's diamond has an old fashioned claw set from the 1960's and the stone itself is a perfect flawless sentimental stone. Resetting a gemstone is the process of removing that stone carefully and remounting it into a completely new mounting, which could be a sleek modern bezel, delicate pavé or beautiful solitaire ring perhaps that suits how you presently dress.
The stone itself does not change, only the way that it tells its story.
Melting down gold to create new pieces of jewelry is a simple and effective way to do so. Regardless of whether the rings are made from 18K, 22K, or 24K, the gold retains its full material value. All of the melted down gold can be used to make any type of jewelry that you need, whether it be an entirely new ring, a pendant or a pair of earrings; everything will be converted but nothing will be lost.
Melting down gold that is also associated with someone's memories will hold additional meaning. For example, wearing an Ethiopian ring that is made from your mother's bangles can represent having your mother right there with you every time you wear it.
When redesigning an old ring from another time period, it is possible to make the new piece look very different from the old one in almost any way you want. The overall shape of the new product can be extremely different than before, because it is possible to reshape the existing band. In addition to changing the shape of the ring, it is also possible to add, remove or move any of the gemstones. Your new transformed piece will begin with a discussion of how you want it to feel, while at the end of the process you will have something you'll want to wear every day.
If you have received several small items of jewellery (a loose sapphire here, a little gold pendant there, a broken bracelet with significant stones, etc.), but none of them make up a complete piece of jewellery on their own, consider combining some of them into one piece of jewellery through Jewellery Remodelling. You can create a bangle that includes all of your inherited stones or create a necklace that incorporates the stories of three generations into one piece.
When working with jade, this stone has a different set of factors to consider as compared to gold; you cannot just melt it down and recast it the same as gold. Jade must be handled with care and may need to be cut again in order to be set. Therefore, you will want to ensure that whoever works with your jade has a good understanding of how to work with jade and its properties. At Felinda we value jade and other heritage stones (specifically ones used in Malaysia and China) as their origins warrant more care when working on them.
There's a very human need to retain something that was once an heirloom in its original material but in a new form.
Changing the way you've worn your sentimental piece doesn't mean you're taking away from the past — it simply allows you a way of keeping that history present. If your sentimental jewelry stays in the drawer and is not being worn, it isn't being appreciated; it's simply being stored. If you take your sentimental jewelry and change it into a piece that you would wear on a special occasion, you will see that piece every time you look at your hand, and it will remind you of the person who gave that piece to you — a silent conversation with that person.
At Felinda, many of our clients come to us after the death of a parent or after having settled an estate. The jewelry they inherit from their deceased family member(s) is of little monetary value to them, but it means more to them than what it was worth; it's about the meaning behind the piece of jewelry. Our role is to help our clients carry that meaning with them in a manner that does not require them to wear a style that doesn't fit them or their personality. This is custom jewelry made from old pieces at its most meaningful.
Felinda is a private, bespoke jewellery atelier located in Petaling Jaya within a shopping complex known as Dataran Sunway. The company only takes appointments for customers to be seen, not because of any exclusivity, but because we believe jewellery should be given one's complete and undivided attention at the time of commissioning.
The starting point for creating any one-of-a-kind piece of jewellery is to have a consultation with Felinda and examine the customer's existing pieces. Felinda will inform the customer of what can be accomplished using the existing materials and create a design that creates an entirely new piece while still honouring the original.
Here's a general overview of designing and redesigning your pieces at Felinda, the processes involved at each stage:
Bring your pieces to our studio at Dataran Sunway so we can evaluate them together — the quality and condition of the gold, the quality and condition of the stones, the quality of the current settings. This is an informal discussion (as opposed to a strict inspection). Before we talk about how your pieces may be redesigned, we need to understand how they have sentimental value to you.
This is the first of three stages in the redesign process. Neither you nor we are obligated to continue to the next stage after this initial consultation.
We will work with you to create design concepts based on your materials/parts and desired style. Some clients provide a very clear description of the piece they want (i.e., "I want a simple solitaire made with my grandmother's diamond"). Other clients give us a more general description of the type of piece desired (i.e., "I have all of this gold; I would like you to create a piece I can wear every day"). Either way, we help the clients work through design options and refine them until the overall design is agreed upon.
During the design exploration, we provide sketches and/or renderings through digital technology as a way for our clients to visualize their designs before any work begins on the piece.
When the design is finalized, we provide you with a full quote for the handcrafted work, any additional materials required (like gold if there is not enough gold available, or additional small diamonds), and a clear time frame.
At this point, we absolutely believe in being completely transparent. You will know exactly how much you are spending, and why.
Your piece will be hand-created at our workshop. The re-modelling of jewellery from inherited pieces requires a skilled craftsman. The process requires melting and re-melting the gold, removing and replacing stones, and creating new settings for these stones requires technical expertise and a level of respect for the history of the material. We value these processes immensely.
After the completion of your piece, you will have a final appointment to view it. It will be your first time seeing the finished product. This moment is what we are in business for, having a client wear a piece made from their grandmother's ring.
Unfortunately, some materials will be lost during both casting and finishing and this is normal for any type of casting project; there will be some losses. As is the case with material losses, we will disclose this information to you at the beginning of the project; when you're given your estimate or quote.
In most cases the answer is yes. If an older piece of Jewelry is 22kt and you want the new piece to be 18kt, we can alloy it to match the desired karatage. This is part of your initial design consultation and helps us to determine how to construct each part of your design to create your new piece.
Some stones have great sentimental value while others have great gemstone value; these are two different things. We will give you our opinion on the stones we are using, and if you want to use stones with poor quality for your new design we will let you know before starting to create the design and give you alternatives to consider.
Typically redesigns can be completed within three months to eight months; depending on the complexity of the project. We will give you a specific timeframe for your project during your consultation.
In order to optimise the options of which stones, metals, and colours can be combined at the workshop. It is recommended to bring all pieces (even if unsure) that you're considering for redesigning an existing piece into a new piece.
Contemporary jewellery is not just expensive jewellery. It's jewellery that continues to have a story over the years; from being passed on from person-to-person, from generation-to-generation, and through different times and cultures, gaining more sentimental value with each new experience.
At Felinda, our belief is that the ability to redesign and repurpose family or heirloom jewellery is one of the greatest services that a fine jeweller provides. It is not simply a mechanical service, but an opportunity to blend old traditions with new dreams, and share both experiences between the past owner's experience, and future owner's experience of wearing the newly created piece.
If you own existing pieces which could be reworked into something incredible, we would like to visit with you and meet the pieces that mean the most to you.
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